Lil' Help Please?

[Add-Rok]

Hi guys,

I'm a longtime lurker and infrequent poster, and was wondering if any of you guys with access to more equipment than me could help a fellow Evo guy out. I live in Northwest DC and don't have a lift, jack, impact wrench or anything, and was wondering if someone could help me throw in some Ferodo brake pads sometime later tomorrow as I have a long trip to take on Saturday and need them in pronto. I considered asking Mike at AMS to do it but I doubt I could make it to him before he closes for the day.

I could take it to a local garage but would be worried that some dope would take a look at the brembos and get confused (maybe I'm just paranoid). Could anyone help me out? I'm willing to drive wherever, whenever, plus it would just be cool to meet another Evo enthusiast nearby. Let me know!

Much appreciated,
Adam

[MadMsheen]

Changing brake pads is fairly easy. You'll only need a small punch, a hammer, a small c-clamp, and a rag. Once the wheel has been removed, use the punch and hammer, with a slight tapping motion, to remove one of the pins in the calipers holding the leaf-spring like holder. After the spring has been removed, punch out the other pin from the caliper. Pull the old brake pad out slightly. Then with the rag between the c-clamp and the painted caliper press the brake pad against the brake piston to provide enough room between the rotor and the pistons for the new, thicker brake pads. Remove the old brake pad. Do it for both sides, then reinstall the new pads. Put one of the pins back in place, then put the metal leaf-spring holder back in place, and secure with the second pin.

Repeat the process for all the brakes. IMPORTANT: Once completed, pump the brake pedal to eliminate the gaps between the new pads and the rotors, and repressurize the system. Ta-dah.. you're done.

Optional: Some people do not reuse the shims for the pads. I reused the stock shims, and also applied brake lube in an attempt to keep the squealing to a minimum. Don't get the brake lube on the pad surface or the rotors.

There is a nice write up on Evolutionm.net.

[Add-Rok]

Changing brake pads is fairly easy. You'll only need a small punch, a hammer, a small c-clamp, and a rag. Once the wheel has been removed, use the punch and hammer, with a slight tapping motion, to remove one of the pins in the calipers holding the leaf-spring like holder. After the spring has been removed, punch out the other pin from the caliper. Pull the old brake pad out slightly. Then with the rag between the c-clamp and the painted caliper press the brake pad against the brake piston to provide enough room between the rotor and the pistons for the new, thicker brake pads. Remove the old brake pad. Do it for both sides, then reinstall the new pads. Put one of the pins back in place, then put the metal leaf-spring holder back in place, and secure with the second pin.

Repeat the process for all the brakes. IMPORTANT: Once completed, pump the brake pedal to eliminate the gaps between the new pads and the rotors, and repressurize the system. Ta-dah.. you're done.

Optional: Some people do not reuse the shims for the pads. I reused the stock shims, and also applied brake lube in an attempt to keep the squealing to a minimum. Don't get the brake lube on the pad surface or the rotors.

There is a nice write up on Evolutionm.net.

Fantastic write up, both yourself and the one on EvoM...thanks for the help. I think I just might go ahead and buy a decent jack and do it myself. I just don't trust the trunk jack for undercar work, which is why I was looking for a quick bit of help here.

If anyone has a little free time would love some help, otherwise I'm buying a jack in the morning.

Thanks all,
Adam

[Mikey52]

Seyla nailed it, it really is pretty damn simple to do the brakes on these cars.


IMPORTANT: Once completed, pump the brake pedal to eliminate the gaps between the new pads and the rotors, and repressurize the system.

This is important. If not done it can cost you upwards of $700. :(

[Add-Rok]

Seyla nailed it, it really is pretty damn simple to do the brakes on these cars.



This is important. If not done it can cost you upwards of $700. :(

Understood! Thanks for the tip there...you can see why I'm a little hesitant to do this myself.

Anyone know a good place to get a deal on a jack these days? Costco? Wal-Mart? AutoZone/Advance?

Thanks,
Adam

[cotmfk]

I think they are only about $50-60 from autozone/pepboys type places.

[AMSTuning.com]

Sorry Adam, we were slammed. I think you made it out just fine though. Let me know if you need help.

Mike @ AMS

[Mikey52]

Understood! Thanks for the tip there...you can see why I'm a little hesitant to do this myself.

Anyone know a good place to get a deal on a jack these days? Costco? Wal-Mart? AutoZone/Advance?

Thanks,
Adam

I would suggest getting a good one like a Craftsman. I bought a 'cheap' Harbor Freight jack and it broke in less than a year of minimal use.

[cotmfk]

I would suggest getting a good one like a Craftsman. I bought a 'cheap' Harbor Freight jack and it broke in less than a year of minimal use.

With something like a car jack, you definitely want to go with quality. A car falling on you is not good... :eek:

[MadMsheen]

With something like a car jack, you definitely want to go with quality. A car falling on you is not good... :eek:

No doubt. There have been a few times where I've had to bench press a car off my chest because of a cheap jack. :D

Seriously, there is a real popular aluminum jack from Sears for $70-100. I have one and Wallyevolution has one, and we both use them quite a bit.

[wallyevolution]

I saw a set at Costco, aluminum jack w/jack stands for about $100. I bought my Craftsman jack from Sears for about $130.

[MadMsheen]

I saw a set at Costco, aluminum jack w/jack stands for about $100. I bought my Craftsman jack from Sears for about $130.

I got the exact same jack for $80. Here (http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?BV_UseBVCookie=Yes&vertical=TOOL&pid=00950240000&subcat=Lift+Equipment) it is for $100. And it fits under my lowered Evo.

[Add-Rok]

I got the exact same jack for $80. Here (http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?BV_UseBVCookie=Yes&vertical=TOOL&pid=00950240000&subcat=Lift+Equipment) it is for $100. And it fits under my lowered Evo.

Fantastic advice, thanks guys! I'm actually back from the long road trip. I just didn't stop the whole way. ;) Still going to invest in a good jack, that Sears one looks great. My Rhino ramps handle oil changes and not much else.

Mike from AMS is going to help me out tomorrow. Mike, thanks for making time. Going to have him drop in my pads, Walbro 255 pump and my "piece de resistance" (pun intended): a shiny new set of Megan Racing coilovers. Can't wait to have the 32-way adjustability so I can back down the stiffness for daily driving and crank it for weekend fun. Will let you all know how it goes.

Going to need a good alignment after the install. Mike, do you do alignments or have a recommended shop who does?

DC. Destroys. Suspensions. :)

Thanks,
Adam

[AMSTuning.com]

We'll give you the # and all the spec info when you are here; I would rather not spam the forum. Thanks, cya tomorrow!

[Warrtalon]

Be sure to get retuned immediately after installing the fuel pump.

[Add-Rok]

Hi all,

Wanted to give a quick update for those interested. I had quite an unpleasant surprise yesterday. After Mike and Cory at Atlantic Motorsports did a great job installing my pads, Walbro pump and coilovers, I went to an alignment shop that literally broke a bolt on the front left camber adjustment plate while their guy was trying to align my car from the top first, with a crowbar throwing his full body weight into the shocks and bolts, while the wheels were under load, without adjusting from under the car first. Naturally, this made me quite mad, but the shop owner tried to run me out of there after this bolt broke like it was my fault or something. However, after taking it back to Mike and Cory to see what we could do, two *more* bolts snapped trying to take them off, whether from overtorquing by the idiot alignment guy or crappy bolt quality, I don't know. I'd say it's a combination of both.

Basically, I've concluded that this Megan racing coilover set is certainly not top of the line at the camber plate, and it is ridiculously lame that the company cheaped out on something as simple as bolts. Still, the alignment guy ripped way too hard on those bolts and took a *crowbar* to my camber plates to move the shock like a moron. Just goes to show, you really can't trust an average mechanic with your Evo.

Anyway, today Cory and Mike graciously spent forever trying to fix the mangled Camber plates and bolts, and I eventually just decided I would buy a set of TEIN front camber plates with heavy duty bolts, which are WAY sturdier and denser than the crap that came on the Megan Racing fronts. Cory put them on in no time and I'm grateful for their help. I'm now happily driving like I mean it again, and honestly my Evo's handling feels about complete. Once I put my MR BBS Wheels back on with the nice sticky Yokos and their stiff sidewalls, I fully intend to try some Autocross this coming season.

Anyway, thanks all for the help.

Dammit, now that my handling is so dialed-in...I feel a power pang coming on...

Can't. Resist. Cams. Upgrade. Much. Longer...

:-)

Thanks,
Adam

P.S. Go to Atlantic Motorsports if you own an Evo. They are fantastic.

[memo]

Glad that everything worked out for you. It is good to hear some reviews about Megan Racing Coilovers whether they are good or bad. Tein CPs should do the job well.

Memo

[neological]

Hi, I live in NW DC as well and I know it can be tough to bust out the jack and start working on your car. A word of advice though, don't do it on public property (aka the street), it's a crime. I have been warned twice and once had to hastily put on my wheels with my swaybar unattached while the cop stood there watching.

[MadMsheen]

Hi, I live in NW DC as well and I know it can be tough to bust out the jack and start working on your car. A word of advice though, don't do it on public property (aka the street), it's a crime. I have been warned twice and once had to hastily put on my wheels with my swaybar unattached while the cop stood there watching.

That's just retarded. Well, I hope you get a garage soon. :)

[AMSTuning.com]

Adam, cool, glad the issue is resolved. Thank you again for your business.